Crisscrossing the Bay

October 10 

Continuing south, we crossed from Oxford (east side) to Solomon's Island (west side) for a one night stay.  After tying up in the rain and getting all signed in, we checked out the facilities and found the restrooms to be awful --- the worst we'd seen on the trip thus far!  For the first time, we actually asked for a refund and moved to another marina just across the way.  No Comparison!

Solomon's Island was the site for the annual Krogen Rondezvous.  We hadn't planned on joining the festivities, but could see quite a turnout from our "new" marina.  

October 11-13

Saturday morning, still going south, it was back across the bay to Crisfield (east side).  

A pair of eagles welcomed us into the Annemessex River inlet and Somers Cove Marina.  

What a nice facility!

The marina was huge - 500 slips!  First time I've seen Docks A thru R!  Unfortunately, it was far from full - as we've seen with many facilities along our way.



The town itself was pretty quiet.  At one time it was the "oyster capitol of the world" -- shipping 11 boxcars of oysters A DAY to the restaurants and hotels in NYC.  Needless to say, the oyster beds were eventually reduced to less than 1% of the original population.  Researchers are now working on "reseeding" projects whose effects won't be seen for many years.

We enjoyed 3 nights at the marina, catching up on laundry, groceries and hardware store projects.  Jan and Garry sampled some of the local oysters at the Waterman's Inn and found them to be delicious!

Yet another fortuitous meeting --- Ann and Mike, aboard Traveling Soul invited us for cocktails and cruising tales.  They had lots of tips and information that will be invaluable to us as we continue our journey.

October 14 - 15

Back across the Chesapeake to the east side to Deltaville and Regatta Point Marina.  The original plan was to anchor for a couple of days, but approaching storms made a dock a better choice.  Leaving Crisfield, we officially crossed into Virginia.  It's interesting to hear the change in accent just being officially in the Southern Chesapeake!

We pulled in to find Traveling Soul already secure along with a couple of other boats we've seen at earlier stops.  Our assigned dock was a bit tight, but Day Dreams was even tighter -- somehow the message that we both have a beam of 15 ft. didn't get across! 

Time for a little exercise before the storms -- so we got the bikes down and pedaled into town to West Marine and the hardware store (of course!).  

Then it was back to the marina to enjoy cocktails on the veranda .................

Wednesday morning Garry and I took another jaunt into town for brunch and a latte at a cute little local cafe.  Then picked up some crab dips and crab cakes at a local fish market, yum.  Back at the dock, the bikes were covered and back up on deck before the storms finally arrived.

With rain/storms in the forecast, no one wanted to cook, so Ann organized a pizza party for the evening.  To add to the fun, Ann and Jan brought out a birthday cake for yours truly --- a complete surprise and a great way to start celebrating a day early!

St. Michaels to Oxford

October 6 - 7

The marina had a great price for diesel, so we fueled up, filled the water tank and were just getting ready to depart when a dinghy pulled up.  It was Bill and Lisa from the Krogen 48, "Changing Courses".  Garry and I had first met them back in Toledo Beach before we began our journey.  Now, they too are living aboard and heading south --- we'll certainly be seeing them again along the way.

Wind and waves precluded any big move, so we headed just across the way to an anchorage in Leed's creek.  As forecast, the wind continued through the night and into the next day.  So with storms rolling in, we moved to a secure dock at the Miles River Yacht Club.  We took advantage of the nice shower facilities and managed to get through cocktails on Day Dreams before the storms began.  Thunder, lightning, wind --- marina was a good move!

October 8 - 9

Continuing down the east side of the Chesapeake, the next stop was the historic town of Oxford.  The "Star Nationals" sailboat races were in full swing.

These are all the same (one design) small, 

2-person sailboats.  The festivities will continue through the weekend.

We dodged the Oxford ferry (it's been around a while!)




and proceeded about a mile or so to a beautiful
anchorage on Trippe Creek.  There was plenty of space surrounded by palatial homes set on large properties.

Plenty of room with only 5 boats anchored.  We enjoyed a lovely evening just chillin'.



Thursday morning it was time to hop into the dinghy to go check out the town of Oxford.

After tying up at the Hinkley dinghy dock, we set off on foot.  Past the oldest original building circa 1600's















First stop, Cutts & Case boatyard, known for building and restoring all manner of wooden boats.












              Just one of many examples




We walked through "town" - a few shops, a small grocery and many well-kept colonial style homes












before enjoying lunch at the historic Robert Morris Inn















Can you say "Crab Cake"????

Time to head back to the dinghy dock.



After a little cruise through the many marinas, back to the anchorage for cocktails and dinner.




The spectacular full moon marked the end of a lovely evening.

St. Michaels

Sunday October 5

What a place for a pit stop!  All along our way, when asking other cruisers about favorite places on the Chesapeake, St Michaels is always on the list.  Since it was time for those necessities --- fuel, pump out and water anyway -- we made the short trip over to St. Michaels marina.









All pumped out and secured for the night, we walked the two block into "downtown".

It's a lovely little town with unique shops, several restaurants, grocery, etc.

















This church in the center of town dates back to 1672 and it's bell continues to mark each quarter hour.














We capped off our day with dinner at the Crab Claw, just across the harbor from the marina.  Crab cakes of course!  Delicious.

Across the Bay

October 2-4

After the hustle and bustle of Annapolis, we were ready for a quiet anchorage.  So we crossed to the east side of the bay to the Wye River and Wye Island.  Once settled in a protected cove, we set out in the dinghies on a recon mission looking for a good place to access the more than 12 miles of walking trails on the island.  We found a kayak/canoe launch at a group campsite that would do just fine.  Mission accomplished --- time for cocktails!  

Day 2 --- beautiful day for a hike.  We did three trails through old growth forest with many huge old trees

including the Wye Island Holly Tree

it's branches reach 4 stories into the sky

and she's been here for more than 290 years!

A holly TREE -- who knew!

Day 3 - lazy morning and kayaking in the afternoon.  Garry and I need a lot of practice!

What a great anchorage -- we saw numerous eagles, hawks and heron.  The moon is almost full and the stars were all out.  Just Waterford and Day Dreams in our little cove ---PRICELESS!

Moving down the Chesapeake

September 27/28

Our next stop, Gibson's Island on the Magothy River.  We pulled in a dropped anchor by lunch time.  This particular spot was recommended by cruisers we met back in Kingston, ON.  Sure enough, we're sitting on the back deck looking out at a horse farm!

The anchorage was pretty busy on this beautiful Saturday.  This beauty cruised through to take a look.

We enjoyed exploring the area by dinghy before moving on Monday morning.

Annapolis  -  September 29 - October 1

It was just a short hop from the anchorage down to Annapolis.  We'd been here many times for boat shows, but never by boat -- let alone, our own boat!  

It IS the Chesapeake -- so we've been dodging crab pots from Baltimore on down.  Seeing how the crabbers work their pots --- well you can understand why it's so darn expensive when you see the work it takes to catch the darn things!

Cruising by the Naval Academy -- our first view from the water

Beyond downtown Annapolis and the Academy, we tied up to mooring balls in Weems Creek.  We'd arrived before lunchtime, so there was plenty of time to dinghy in and provision up at the local grocery.

Tuesday we met a great guy at the coffee shop who not only had lots of information to share, but even gave us a ride to connect with public transit that would take us down to the Annapolis waterfront.

This Spanish galleon was docked at the wharf.  It's the biggest "tall ship" we'd ever seen!








After cruising through the downtown shopping area and lunch at Middleton Tavern (the best steamed shrimp and oyster shooters in town!), we decided to take the Naval Academy tour.  As many times as we've been there, we had never actually been on the grounds.  It was well worth the time!

After watching a short video, we were able to tour the beautiful grounds, the huge dormitory, one of the athletic facilities housing the olympic sized pool,











                                         the chapel,
















   





which also houses the tomb of John Paul Jones

and the museum.  Here you see the original flag from the battle of Lake Erie.






It was a very impressive inspiring place.



Wednesday we moved from our moorings.  Actually they were US Navy moorings -- supposedly only used if a "named" storm is imminent.  Apparently things have changed because the Navy was handing out "eviction" notices --- good thing we had reservations elsewhere!

Destination Mears Marina in Eastport.  What a nice place -- lovely bathroom, shower, laundry, and outdoor  facilities

It was marina chore day --- laundry, fill water tanks, bike to Fawcett's and West Marine for odds and ends, etc.  We took advantage of the lovely outdoor area for a cook out and campfire --- lovely end to the day.

Northern Chesapeake Bay

Baltimore Inner Harbor - September 24 - 26

We departed Summit North Marina on the C&D canal bound for Baltimore and the Harbor East Marina, arriving on Wednesday afternoon. What a great location --- restaurants, shopping, water taxi, and historical sites all close by!  

Thursday was a gray rainy day, so we donned rain gear and set off to nearby Fell's Creek.  After a quick stop at the post office, we cruised through the market where Garry and Doug couldn't resist the sandwich offerings.  Jan and I tracked down a coffee shop and then rejoined the guys for a tour of the town 

restaurants and shops, including the best music/video stores ever ...........  

And a great bar, One Eyed Mike's - they sell more Grand Marnier than any other single entity, including cruise ships!

So of course, we had to have one of their special Grand Marnier concoctions with our lunch...

          

The bartender didn't look anything like this........

Friday we took the water taxi across the harbor to Trawler Fest.  It's a much smaller show than the Annapolis Boat shows, dedicated exclusively to trawlers.  We enjoyed going through the new Krogens and catching up with Bill Harris, our "Krogen guy".

Back at the marina, Bob Perkins (good friend Skip's brother) and his girlfriend joined us for cocktails followed by dinner at a great Italian restaurant just a short walk away.  It was great to catch up with him.

NY to the Chesapeake & Delaware (C&D) Canal

September 16 - 23

We woke Tuesday morning to our first "glitch" --- our AIS system was just not working.  Underway, this system is invaluable as it identifies other vessels and their course so you can set your course accordingly.  So before we could depart, we had to order a replacement to be delivered to our next destination.







Fortunately, it was Day Dreams" turn to lead, so we did move on, saluting Lady Liberty on the way out --- just a short trek to Great Kills Yacht Club on Staten Island (still part of NYC).  We were welcomed by AGLCA Harbor Host extraordinaire, John, who made sure our stay there was exceptional.  Doug and Jan took advantage of a second day in NYC while we stuck around the dock, ready to install the new AIS system on arrival.  In between, we managed to enjoy the hospitality of GKYC, had a great dinner at Coles Dockside restaurant while getting the new system up and running.





We took advantage of favorable weather, leaving before dawn to make our way out onto the "big water" to Atlantic City.  It was a beautiful ride --- our first experience with Waterford on the ocean!  Several dolphins  came out to greet us as we approached

We passed up the casino marina in favor of a beautiful quiet anchorage for the night.

The bright lights of the casinos paled in comparison to this sunset ...........





On to Cape May -- our final leg in the Atlantic.
With following seas of 2-4 ft, it was a little rougher than the previous days.  After maneuvering through the fishing fleet,

and fighting strong winds and tide, we were finally secured at South Jersey Marina.  They claim to have the best restrooms and showers anywhere --- comparable to any 4-star hotel

and we agreed!  Spacious, spotless, tile, marble countertops -- it's the little things we've come to appreciate!

Outdoor mall with fun shops.

We spent 4 days in Cape May, enjoying walking, shopping, biking to lighthouse and winery and some great seafood at the Lobster House right next door to the marina.

Cape May lighthouse -- surrounded by bird sanctuary.  We saw the first eagles of our entire trip here.

We waited an extra day for the right conditions to cross Delaware Bay on our way to the C&D canal that would take us into the Chesapeake Bay.  Still, the first part of the trip was a little rough with the wind on our nose.  Fortunately, conditions improved steadily as the day progressed.  We docked for the night at Summit North Marina, a very quiet spot compared to the hustle and bustle of Cape May.  Tomorrow, it's into the Chesapeake Bay.