Tuesday August 20 Day 80 42 mi / 1495 total

June 19 thru Aug 20 --- 26 stops, 1068 miles ...... our Superior Adventure, PRICELESS!

Waterford led the way out of Batchawana Bay at 8 a.m. under clear blue skies and a temp of 66.  We spent much of the trip up on the bridge enjoying the scenes as we approached the lock on the Canadian side of the Soo.  The Canadian lock is a small one intended for use by pleasure boats and other small craft.   Once through the lock, we pulled into Bondar Marina.  The current and a brisk wind made the entrance a little tricky.  Since they could only handle one boat at a time for pump out, Day Dreams had to hold out in the river while we pumped out and got secured at our slip.  Then we helped the (there was only 1) dockhand while they pumped out and moved into their slip.  The marina seemed a bit run down --- certainly not up to par with many of the other marinas we've visited along the way.  However, there was a mall, with Walmart, right next door.  So we picked up some groceries and had a nice Italian dinner at a nearby restaurant.  One night's stay here will suffice --- we'll move over to the US side to Kemp's marina tomorrow.

Monday August 19 Day 79 64 mi / 1453 total

We left Indian Harbor with Day Dreams in the lead intending to go to Sinclair Cove for the Ojibwe pictographs.  But the cove was too small for the two of us to anchor comfortably, so we revised the plan and headed for Batchawana Bay.  It made for a long day, but with another 40+ miles yet to the Soo, it was actually a good move.  We anchored in Harmony Bay, one of the “smaller” bays of the group that make up Batchawana Bay.  We were the only 2 boats in an area that seemed huge in comparison to our previous anchorages. 

 

 

The Loons came to serenade us on our last night on Lake Superior.  We’re sad to leave, but feel a sense of accomplishment along with wonderful memories of the people we’ve met and the indescribable (I ran out of adjectives!) beauty of this Superior Lake.

Sunday August 18 Day 78 Dinghy tour

Although it was still a little rough with SW winds, we took off on a short (2miles) dinghy cruise.  Indian Harbor is one of several anchorages around Cape Gargantua (per Bonnie Dahl, pronounced gar-gun-TWA).  This area has many deep harbors and intricate rock formations named by First Nation Ojibwe.  Our destination was the “Devil’s Chair”.

 

 

 

We pulled the dinghies in to a little rock "beach"

and hopped out to explore.....

 

 

 

 

 

Here, legend has it, Naniboujou, the giant who protected the Ojibwe, rested after jumping over the lake.

 

 

Can't you just see old Naniboujou reclining behind us??  (use your imagination)

It's supposed to be good luck if you can climb up to that second little "window" and kiss your lover. 

Doug and Jan made it....................

Not to be outdone by the "youngsters", Gramps and Mimi made it too!

It was too rough to dingy all the way to the Devil’s Warehouse, so we went back to the boats for lunch.  We dinghied to shore and hiked the 3K to Warp Bay with it's beautiful sand beach and a long range view of the Devil's Warehouse (the large island straight across).



 



 
 


Along the way, we saw more signs of moose, including this skull, than anywhere in our previous travels.

Never saw a live animal!  








                              Another easy, flat 3K!!!




By the time we got back it was cocktail time, so Garry and I did a little dinghy cruise, still looking for that elusive moose. 

We anchored the dinghy at the mouth of a little stream -- perfect moose territory .



Do YOU see a moose?????




Guess a second moose sighting just wasn't in the cards!

Saturday August 17 Day 77 14 mi / 1389 total

The Connie B is in front of us. 

With Waterford in the lead, we left Brule Harbor at 7:50 a.m.  We arrived to find the Connie B at anchor in Indian Harbor. 


The anchorage is rather narrow, so we put out bow and stern anchors to one side of them and Day Dreams did the same on the other side.  




Once secure, we decided a Bloody Mary was in order (it is Saturday after all).  I had just begun the preparation when I heard a whoop from the back deck.  Garry had thrown a line out and scored a nice salmon on the first cast!  


He got  the second one later in the afternoon.  Salmon for dinner!! 




After a great dinner of fresh salmon, we made a fire on the beach with s’mores for dessert.  Perfect evening!

Thursday August 15 - Friday August 16 Days 75-76 53 mi / 1375

West winds had kicked up 4-5 ft waves as we left Otter Head at 6:30 a.m. on Thursday morning.  This was one of our longer runs, but fortunately the waves were on our starboard stern quarter so the ride wasn't bad.  We arrived in Brule Harbor early afternoon just as the Connie B was leaving.  We were snugged into the east end of the harbor with bow and stern anchors deployed to limit swing.  This end of the harbor is supposedly a favorite feeding area for moose (of course we didn't see any)! 

Long day, beautiful sunset!

Friday it was time for a dinghy adventure.  We set out first for the "cobblestone beach" and a look at the Pukaskwa Pits.  As you can see, these were the biggest cobblestones I'd ever seen!







The Pits are thousands of years old and no one knows what their exact function was. 


Prehistoric hot tub perhaps???????













We went on from there to Old Woman Bay with it's towering cliffs and beautiful sand beach. 












On the way back to the anchorage, Jan spied this eagle -- one of many we have seen on our travels around the lake.





We ended the day with cocktails on the bridge on Day Dreams followed by another fruitless moose hunt (I guess we have to be happy we saw ONE)!

Monday August 12 - Wednesday August 14 Days 72-74 34 mi / 1322 total

7:30 a.m. -- with a wave goodbye to Marty on Alizann, we left Pulpwood Harbor behind and headed south in light rain.  Waves were 1-3 ft as we approached Otter Head with Waterford in the lead.  A couple of sailboats were entering Otter Cove from the south, so Day Dreams did a quick check of Old Dave’s Harbor just in case.  Not enough room for 2 there, so we joined the sailors in Otter Cove.  In addition to the sailboats, there was a little Nordic Tug anchored --- plenty of room for all.  By 2 p.m. the rain began in earnest, putting a damper on any afternoon plans.

 
We attempted to dinghy to Cascade Falls, but had to turn back in heavy wind and waves.  We did make it to Otter Island and made the hike to the lighthouse.  On the way back, we stopped to pick fresh blueberries on the small island at the mouth of the cove.  Garry did some fishing and landed a couple of northern.

They’re fun to catch but not our favorite, so he gave them to the sailors. 



Like Day Dreams and Waterford, the two sailboats had been vacationing and traveling together for many years.  They were VERY interested in our trawlers!

The Nordic Tug, Connie B and the sailors all departed on Wednesday morning, so we had the harbor to ourselves.  Those wild blueberries made delicious pancakes for a late breakfast.  Still too rough to get to the falls – we’ll just have to keep that one in the old memory bank!

Saturday August 10 - Sunday August 11 Day 70 - 71 38 mi / 1288 total

“Oh What a Beautiful Morning………..”  We departed the Slates at 7:30 a.m. with Day Dreams in the lead.  As we rounded Patterson Island we passed the Sunday Point Light with S/SW winds at 10 and waves 1-2 ft.  


Our original destination was Pitch Rock Harbor with a dingy excursion to the White River, falls and suspension bridge.  But with the prevailing wind/waves not conducive to dingy travel, we set out for Pulpwood Harbor instead.  From there we could either take a significantly shorter dingy ride and 2-mile hike to the bridge or just hike 5.2 miles (one way with rugged terrain for half the trip). 

 We were anchored safely in the harbor by 1:30 p.m.  Garry and I deployed the dinghy and set out on a scouting mission.  Pulpwood Harbor and the adjacent Hattie’s Cove and campground are part of the Pukaskwa National Park which covers some 725 square miles along the northeast shore.  We dinghied over to the campground and Visitor Center where we were instructed to get a day pass for the Coastal Hiking Trail that would take us to the White River and the suspension bridge over the falls.  So we walked through the campground to the entrance kiosk for our passes.

 The two young ladies at the kiosk were obviously distracted.  Just before we left Waterford, we had heard a May-Day call over the radio.  A canoe with 2 people aboard had capsized just north of Hattie’s Cove.  One of the 2 had made it to shore, but the other was missing.  We were not close enough to be of any help with the dinghy, but for the next couple of hours a search plane circled overhead.   Sadly, we would learn later that the 73 year old man didn’t make it.

 We met Doug and Jan at the beach and while they walked up to sign in, we took a swing through Hattie’s cove with fishing rod deployed.  This is supposed to be a great spot for pickerel (walleye) ---

not even a nibble!  So we cruised by Day Dreams and made plans to hike to the falls the next day.

 



Red sky at night................

Sunday Aug 11    Day 71

 

Off to the White River –

 

With our backpacks loaded with camera, lunch, water, rain gear, bug spray, AND bear bell, we beached the dinghies at the campground and set out.  We picked up the Coastal Hiking Trail just past the Visitor center with 7.2 K (a little over 5 miles) to the suspension bridge.  The first mile and a half wasn’t too bad, around Hattie’s Cove and over a boardwalk through a marshy area (no moose).  Then it got interesting – now we know why the park guide listed it as “challenging”! 

 

The Happy Hikers --- this was  just the beginning!

First we went up................ 




            And then we went down...................





  

We made it to the falls a little after 1 p.m. The view of the 200 foot gorge from the suspension bridge was absolutely breathtaking!   

 

                




The new bridge suspended 75 ft over the White River gorge.















The river tumbles more than 200 feet through the gorge beneath ......




You can just see a second falls in the distance.

Looking down the other side.














                       Don't look down!

 

We had lunch in the rocky clearing on the far side of the bridge, resting up for the 5+ mile hike back.  I’m thinking this is at least a week’s worth of exercise!! 

 While we were hiking, my sister Toni, a recent breast cancer survivor, and her 3 nieces (our daughters, Lee and Laura, and Tiger’s sister’s daughter Taylor) were completing the Chicago 3-day Komen Walk for the Cure.  Our 10 miles, though challenging, can’t compare to the 60 miles they logged!  Here’s to Beck’s Beauties --- we love you!!

 When we got back to the campground, we took advantage of the showers before taking the dinghies back to the boats.  What a nice surprise --- Alizann had arrived!  We spent a lovely evening with Marty and Suzanne.  This will be our last rendezvous in Lake Superior, but we look forward to crossing paths again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Friday August 9 Day 69 26 mi / 1250 total

The original plan was to leave @ 7:30 after topping off our water tank, but the water was shut off until the dockhands arrived at 8:30.  By then it was also raining, so we finally left the dock about 9 am.  With following seas, we arrived in the Slate Islands about 1 pm.  From here it is all South and East – as we have made the “turn for home”.

 

We made our way through a narrow passage into Pike’s Bay where we found “Raydiance” already at anchor.  It was a gorgeous spot, but not enough room for all three of us to anchor and swing freely.  So once our anchor was set, Tom hopped in his dinghy and helped Garry tie the stern to a tree on shore.   Day Dreams did the same on the other side of Raydiance ---- all snug and secure by 2 pm.  Tom and Linda hosted cocktail hour aboard Raydiance followed by a “Caribou hunt”.  With binoculars and cameras in hand, we hopped in the dinghies and proceeded to a flat grassy area to wait. 



Then this guy arrived to graze.   Our first caribou sighting!

We watched for quite a while before he realized he was being observed.  Then he "hightailed" it outa there! 

What a great evening.  To top it all off, the night sky was ablaze with stars.

 

We're Baaaaaaack! Our last 12 days on Lake Superior in individual posts. Days 69 - 80

Catching up --- July 30 - Aug 8 thru day 68 1224 total miles

Finally, we have wifi again so we can catch you up on our travels since July 29.  The signal is slow, so I can't put in as many pics as usual, but hope to give you the highlights.

We joined Day Dreams on Isle Royale in Windigo on Monday July 29 about 2 pm.  We deployed the dinghy, picked up Doug and Jan and went to the Ranger station to register. 



After catching up on the week's activities, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset.

The lake welcomed us back in spectacular fashion!








Tuesday after a rainy start, we dinghied out to a shipwreck just outside the entrance to the harbor.  The "glass bottom bucket" was put to good use again.  It's amazing how so many of these wrecks occur so close to a harbor or just off the target route.

After lunch, we set out to find the elusive moose...............  to no avail.  Mary, we will see one before our trip is over!


But we had a lovely 4 mile hike and, to our delight, we found ripe thimbleberries.  These luscious berries abound up here, but because of the cold late spring/summer, these are the first ripe ones we've come across.  They are a very fragile, delicious cross between a strawberry and raspberry -- mmmmmmm

Wednesday July 31 - Day 60

We woke to FOG again at the 6:30 check in.  But by 8:30, conditions had improved and we set out with Day Dreams in the lead.  Though we had a little light rain, the fog lifted and we arrived safely in Thunder Bay, Ontario about 2 pm at the fuel dock for pump outs before moving to our assigned docks.  Allizan pulled in just behind us, so all 3 Krogens were "in the house".  We spent 2 days in Thunder Bay provisioning, doing laundry, boat washing, and finding plenty of time for cocktails and dinner in area restaurants. 

Friday Aug 2 

We left Thunder Bay at 8:30 am bound for Loon Harbor, a favorite of Bonnie Dahl, author of the Lake Superior book we are living by these days.  It didn't disappoint.  We pulled in about 2:30 and anchored in a lovely spot with Day Dreams in the next little cove - perfect, for now.  There was a bit of rain after we got settled, but once the rain passed, it was calm, quiet and beautiful.  And then 2 sailboats arrived ------- with all the room in this harbor, they proceeded to drop anchor as close as possible   WHY?  We would be joined by yet another sailboat on Saturday, a regular convention!

Saturday we enjoyed exploring by dinghy followed by a beach fire and s'mores -- couldn't be better.

Sunday Aug 4



Yes those are the treeTOPS!

We left the crowd at Loon Harbor at 10 am with Doug in the lead.  Our destination was Otter Cove, a short 10 mile run.  Day Dreams anchored in close to the mouth of the stream that feeds the lake and we were able to anchor just out from them.  What a great spot!  We deployed the dinghy and Day Dreams their kayak to head upstream to the waterfall.  We had to tie up on the side and hike to the top -- about a 400 ft. drop -- awesome!  From the top of the falls, we continued on a tough couple of miles to a beautiful inland lake that was actually warm enough to wade in.

Otter Cove is also known for great fishing, so Garry had to get the old pole out and give it a try.  No luck on the first evening, but he had great luck the next morning.  We had a wonderful lake trout dinner!



And then ............. Moose alert! 








Jan spied a moose in the stream, so we jumped in the dinghy and rowed up into the stream to take a look.  Sure enough, there she was.






We've run out of adjectives to describe this amazing Lake, it's shoreline, islands, and wildlife.  So we just called this a 3-Star Day ---- 2 fish and a moose!

Tuesday Aug 6    Happy Birthday Garry

We had planned to move on, but fog did us in again.  Oh darn, we have to stay another day in this gorgeous spot!  Allizan had pulled into the harbor earlier and joined us for cocktails.  The Jan did a wonderful lambchop dinner and I made the famous shortcake with strawberries.

Wednesday Aug 7

The fog is gone and we left on a beautiful morning for Woodbine Harbor.  We were anchored in this lovely spot in early afternoon and just chilled.  Doug and Jan explored by kayak and we just hung out on the boat reading, napping and enjoying the scenery.

Thursday Aug 8

We left Woodbine Harbor at 8 am bound for Rossport Harbor, just 15 miles away.  We did make a stop at Battle Island, where we rafted off Day Dreams anchored in the bay.





We hiked up to the lighthouse for some spectacular photos and views of Lake Superior before continuing to Rossport.

The lighthouse is perched on this high bluff with a panoramic view of the lake.

Had to capture this rare moment ---- rafting together on anchor and both Jan and I in the photo!



When we'd seen all the sights on Battle Island, it was time to make the short hop over to Rossport.
We pulled into the dock for pump outs and to fill our water tanks before we work our way along the northeast shore back to the Soo. 

Garry got to talking with one of the locals at the dock and before we knew it, he had offered the use of his van.  So we took off for a neighboring town where Garry got his Canadian fishing license and Jan and I got some last minute provisions at the local grocery. Tom (van man) and Shelley, John and Jo and 4 of their friends joined us later for docktails.  We enjoyed meeting and talking with them until the rain put an end to the party.  It is the people we have met along the way that have helped to make this trip so special.

Tomorrow we set out on the last leg of the Lake Superior portion of the trip, the northeast shore.  We will have very limited cellphone or wifi, if at all.  So our next post may be from the Soo in a couple of weeks.  Until then .......................

Thanks for following our adventure.